During the first 8 days of hiking the PCT I covered, 86 miles!
Birdie, my usual hiking partner, and I started at the Bridge of the Gods on July 22nd, where my mom dropped us off and told us, “Go take a hike!” And, so we did!
Birdie hiked with me for the first four days to Trout Creek, where I resupplied out of the car and she drove home. Then I was on my own… sort of. There are so many other hikers that I never feel totally alone out there. I like that; I feel safer knowing there are folks around.
We started at the Columbia River and slowly climbed out of the gorge. We went farther than planned because the site we had hoped to camp at was already taken – seven miles instead of a little over five. The next day, another seven miles. This time, a little less than the eight planned. We had a lovely camp site up top a ridge with a mountain view!

On the third day, twelve miles! Definitely more than planned, but we were doing well and it got us to a camp site. This site was on an old, abandoned road, but flat and relatively low on the bugs.
On Birdie’s last day, we hiked a little shy of five miles down to Trout Creek. There, she helped me take a shower with a gallon of water – ah! Clean hair! And I packed up new food, clean socks, put on a clean shirt, and clean underwear – the luxuries!
As she drove off, I walked another 4 something miles Panther Creek where I soaked my feet in the lovely cool water, took advantage of the pit toilet in the nearby campground, and spent the night. There was another trail camp 100’ or so from me that was occupied. That was the most alone I’ve camped so far.
The next morning was the first day of the heat wave, so I was up at 4:20 and on the trail by 5:30 to begin the climb and water carry… I wanted to get as far as I could while it was still cool out. Ten miles and 4,700 feet elevation gain. Let’s just say I’m a really good flat trail hiker… I become a complete snail on the uphill. I was grateful that the creek a mile or two before the campsite was running – it was a third of a mile DOWNhill from the trail, but it was good to refill the water supply. I got to camp early afternoon and spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying the shade and resting. In the evening a couple from Berlin joined me and camped nearby. Anytime I meet Germans, I enjoy speaking German, so was able to practice a little with them.
The next day was going to be another hot one, but fortunately not nearly the elevation gain and with more water along the way. And, I was entering Indian Heaven. I have heard how lovely that area is and so was excited to see it. Apparently, the mosquitos have also gotten the memo and they were out with the whole family! They were BAD!!! I was using picaridin on my arms; I had treated my clothes with permethrin, and was using DEET, a head net, and my bug jacket (netting jacket). Unfortunately, being a mosquito magnet was not completely deterred by these measures.
In the evening Thomas from Berlin camped next to me and there were a few folks at another camp site a 100’ or so at the edge of Sheep Lake. More German practice!
That night I did some planning… how fast can I get out of the mosquitos?!? If I could pull off two 15 mile days, I could get to Trout Lake early and get out of the mosquitos.
The next morning, I was off about 6 am and trudged along. Midday, I stopped for a while. First I just pulled my tent over me and zipped the opening around my feet. Then, I finally just climbed in the un-setup tent and listened to my audio book for a couple of hours – waiting out the heat of the day. Not glamorous, but at least I was out of the bugs for the moment. But beginning to wonder – why am I doing this?


Mid-afternoon, I took off again and made it to the northern edge of Indian Heaven. There was a dirt road and little used parking area… and almost no bugs in this open area! The Swiss couple that had passed me earlier in the day were there and we camped together. Yup, more German! Although, we did switch to English some because Swiss German is not German.

Surprisingly, after my first 15 mile day, I wasn’t particularly sore the next morning, so I headed out for another 15 miles to get to Trout Lake.

A couple of miles from the trailhead I remet a couple of guys that were ‘slackpacking’ – doing day hikes and using two cars to shuttle around, and camping in their vehicles. I had first chatted with them south of Indian Heaven. When I hit the road that goes to Trout Lake (the town is about 14 miles down from the trail), they were there! So they have me an ice cold Dr. Pepper and a ride to town!
Jumping ahead in the story – I ended up coming back home for a couple of days because of the mosquitos, but am headed back out later today. I’ll post the next section of the journey when I next have time and internet. Stay cool and hydrated!
Photo
Top photo is Mt. Hood through the evening haze.

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