From Alabama, I drove south to the Gulf Coast – a study in contradictions. From skyscrapers, to white sand, to large birds, to mighty rivers, to massive industry.

In Pensacola, I stopped at a grocery store amid afternoon traffic. With supplies restocked, I headed to the Florida section of the Gulf Islands National Seashore. Crossing one giant bridge, then driving through a completely built-up area on a flat island, over another bridge to a less populated island, I questioned human logic. I see why people like the beaches, yet it seems like it could all be washed away quickly. In a number of areas, homes were built on stilts.

I enjoyed the sunset at Battery Cooper, part of Fort Pickens, a short walk from my campsite for the night.

The next day, I explored the area

• Saw pelicans, herons, and people – all fishing
• Wandered through an old fort
• Took a short walk through the unusual, to me, vegetation
• Saw an armadillo – this one not flat or bloated on the side of the road, but camera shy so no picture
• Walked along the white beach and turquoise water

After retracing my steps across the bridges, I turned west for Fort Morgan, where I caught the ferry to Dauphin Island – it seemed a more interesting way to get around Mobile than simply driving. My car got a wash in the process, too. (albeit with salt water, which I washed off the next day). The extent of the oil industry in the gulf was evident during the crossing.

For the night, I landed at the Alabama Welcome Center at the Mississippi state line. One of the nicest rest areas I’ve come across yet. As I headed in to use the facilities in the evening, I noticed German license plates on a van parked nearby – a VW, of course. I always have fun speaking German with Germans, so struck up a conversation with them. The next morning, we sat in their van and chatted for about 2 hours (this time in English). My first van life friends!

I continued along highway 90, which ran right along the coast most in many places. In Ocean Springs, I visited the Walter Anderson Museum of Art. He painted murals in the local community center, along with many drawings and paintings throughout his life. His trees looked odd to me, but as I continued my drive, I could see how his work reflected the trees of the south.

For the night, I pulled into a quiet boat landing on the Pearl River.

I started the next day with a short walk on the nearby Possum Heritage trail. Sounds pretty tame, right? Signs further down alluded otherwise – bears and alligators, oh my! I didn’t see either but did pay more attention to my surroundings.

And then, on to New Orleans!